May 14, 2017 5:22 PM CEST
in the topic
Chip Tuning Feature in the forum
Support
It would appear, based on my reading of the feature and my (admittedly limited) electrical knowledge, that the 'Chip Tuning' feature is more an expansion of previous hardware limitations to provide better support for over-voltage and higher amperage.
This means, basically, that the SBrick can pass a higher voltage and amperage (more watts, theoreticaly almost 4x) through to the motors than the IR sensor could. For all practical purposes, this means a modest improvement if you are using a 6x AA or AAA power unit, which can provide a peak 9v (6x 1.5v); but not through the IR sensor, it limits to 7.4v 1A, probably for battery longevity. But to achieve 10.8 or close to 11.8v, you will need a different or modified power supply (with traditional batteries) or non-traditional batteries.
For example, you could use 7x alkaline AA to get 10.5v by using a 8-AA pack and a blank (pack linked below) and splicing on a PF cable cut from an extension.
If you change up your battery chemistry, you could use 3x 3.7v Li-Ion AA (used in high-end flashlights) and 3 pass-through blanks to achieve 11.1v 3A in a 6x AA battery pack, which would over time drop some as the batteries drain, but still be well over the 7.4v 1A expected and delivered before. It would deliver 33 Watts of work, while before you would have gotten 7.4 Watts, an improvement of 4x for as long as the battery's charge held out.
You could also build or modify your own battery pack with 8x NiMh rechargables, which are 1.2v instead of 1.5; this would grant a voltage of 9.6v, or add another for 10.8v, both of which are well over 7.4v, and more batteries also mean longer running life than if there were only 6 - though you are still draining faster than before, even with more batteries to pull from: 50% more capacity, but 3-400% more drain.
But that's what you are looking for, performance.
8x AA battery box: Amazon
9x AA battery box: Amazon
Then take a PF cable (linked in the store or from Lego.com), cut it, and splice it onto the battery box, making sure to get the + & - correct, and you have a high-voltage setup when plugged into an SBrick.
Disclaimer: I am not an EE - just a hobbyist - and I have not tested this. Yet.