[blockquote]Maurice de Regt said:
This project comes very close to this request,, perhaps the team can take a look at it: http://www.hackvandedam.nl/blog/?page_id=593
[/blockquote]
Hello!
Thank you for sharing this with us. We will check it!
Have a nice day,
Balint
SBrick Team
This project comes very close to this request,, perhaps the team can take a look at it: http://www.hackvandedam.nl/blog/?page_id=593
Hi everyone...as per my knowledge Some simple projects, like small RC cars, need only 2 channels. But in this case, at least one of channels should still be able to deliver considerable power, if e.g. two motors are connected to same output.As 2nd S-Brick unit in applications where 4 more channels are overkill. I have a project currently, where all 4 channels are busy, so LEDs are just added over existing channels or continously lit up. Even one channel more will be enough for me, to turn on/off LEDs. Buying full S-Brick for this is too expensive.
Ah yes, if wire goes to side there is no need for one port to be elevated. So brick is smaller, one thing, and then wires can be "crimped" over with some plate, to secure them in place, a feature I greatly miss with current SBrick, low level port wires constantly get disconnected.
This small S-Brick thing is really great, I encountered another application in my builds recently. I used simple grip arm with 2 controls, one for lower/raise, another for grip/release. Now I have to wire grip/release motor all way back to SBrick, with short M-Motor wire, and lower/raise motor wiring is awkward too.
With small S-Brick I can just wire 1 extension wire to the control location, and power both motors from there. Since app can control 2 S-Bricks at a time from one screen, This will work seamlessly.
[blockquote]-= Lynx =- said:
So, if you are interested, here is some more pictures
From left to right: front view, back view, 2 small bricks prepared to connect via copper pins, 2 small bricks connected
Red is where power in goes, yellow and purple are out ports.
In this way, user can reverse voltage, so either a diode protection is necessary, or one pin can be made +, and other O.
Wires for outport should then connect sideways, so "yellow" port on 2nd brick will be accessible.
[/blockquote]
Yes but the top must be leveled like my first example, else it gets too big again
So, if you are interested, here is some more pictures
From left to right: front view, back view, 2 small bricks prepared to connect via copper pins, 2 small bricks connected
Red is where power in goes, yellow and purple are out ports.
In this way, user can reverse voltage, so either a diode protection is necessary, or one pin can be made +, and other O.
Wires for outport should then connect sideways, so "yellow" port on 2nd brick will be accessible.
[blockquote]-= Lynx =- said:
Hmm, +1 to this idea. Some usages:
1. Some simple projects, like small RC cars, need only 2 channels. But in this case, at least one of channels should still be able to deliver considerable power, if e.g. two motors are connected to same output.
2. As 2nd S-Brick unit in applications where 4 more channels are overkill. I have a project currently, where all 4 channels are busy, so LEDs are just added over existing channels or continously lit up. Even one channel more will be enough for me, to turn on/off LEDs. Buying full S-Brick for this is too expensive.
3. As alternative to buying one 4-channel S-Brick to power 2 small models, at the same price. E.g. two persons building competing cars, or 2 trains on same tracks. In large builds 4 channel version is more useful, because of 1 power in -> 4 outs, so they will have different niche.
As a though, about holes to make chained power. There are LEGO bricks with pin holes where holes are 1-to-1 with studs. So with 2x4 studs brick there may be 2 holes. Make these holes compatible to lego pinds as with current case. Next, put power receptacles inside holes. And last make pins from conducting material. Then if 2 such bricks are combined, power is transferred via these pins. If one is used, pin holes can be used as usual for building. Will make pictures of it.
[/blockquote]
Thank you for the suggestion guys!
We also think it is a good idea. We look into what can we do. :)
Regards,
Balint Mezei - SBrick Team
Hmm, +1 to this idea. Some usages:
1. Some simple projects, like small RC cars, need only 2 channels. But in this case, at least one of channels should still be able to deliver considerable power, if e.g. two motors are connected to same output.
2. As 2nd S-Brick unit in applications where 4 more channels are overkill. I have a project currently, where all 4 channels are busy, so LEDs are just added over existing channels or continously lit up. Even one channel more will be enough for me, to turn on/off LEDs. Buying full S-Brick for this is too expensive.
3. As alternative to buying one 4-channel S-Brick to power 2 small models, at the same price. E.g. two persons building competing cars, or 2 trains on same tracks. In large builds 4 channel version is more useful, because of 1 power in -> 4 outs, so they will have different niche.
As a though, about holes to make chained power. There are LEGO bricks with pin holes where holes are 1-to-1 with studs. So with 2x4 studs brick there may be 2 holes. Make these holes compatible to lego pinds as with current case. Next, put power receptacles inside holes. And last make pins from conducting material. Then if 2 such bricks are combined, power is transferred via these pins. If one is used, pin holes can be used as usual for building. Will make pictures of it.
[blockquote]Maurice de Regt said:
Hi all,
I think a smaller and cheaper sbrick would be great. I have some old 80tish trainsets i want to add powerfunctions to it and there is just no room in it for the current sbrick. Also the BNSF locomotive (more recent) has no place for it, so I figured, why not make a smaller sbrick. Make it 2x4 so we can connect 2 connectors to it. This size can be put in almost any trainset and will make a great addition to the normal sbrick. Let's call it: The mini SBRICK. It could look like this:
The red part is where we connect the mini sbrick to the battery. On top we can put 2 connectors.
Optional, make this one extendable (if people need more connections). If we look at my example picture again you also see 2 black dots. The 2 black dots are holes. On the other side of the brick the are 2 small pins. This way we can connect 2 (or more) mini bricks to each other giving it more options to connect things to.
So:
+ 
= 
Ofcourse when combined the (in this case) second red spot doesnt need to be connected to the power supply since it gets the power from the pins. So we have a small sbrick and we can even extend it, but keeping it rather small
Some benefits:
Let me know what you think of it.
Regards,
Maurice
[/blockquote]
Hello Maurice!
Thank you for the suggestion, we check out what could we do. :)
Regards,
Balint Mezei - SBrick Team
Hi all,
I think a smaller and cheaper sbrick would be great. I have some old 80tish trainsets i want to add powerfunctions to it and there is just no room in it for the current sbrick. Also the BNSF locomotive (more recent) has no place for it, so I figured, why not make a smaller sbrick. Make it 2x4 so we can connect 2 connectors to it. This size can be put in almost any trainset and will make a great addition to the normal sbrick. Let's call it: The mini SBRICK. It could look like this:
The red part is where we connect the mini sbrick to the battery. On top we can put 2 connectors.
Optional, make this one extendable (if people need more connections). If we look at my example picture again you also see 2 black dots. The 2 black dots are holes. On the other side of the brick the are 2 small pins. This way we can connect 2 (or more) mini bricks to each other giving it more options to connect things to.
So:
+ =
Ofcourse when combined the (in this case) second red spot doesnt need to be connected to the power supply since it gets the power from the pins. So we have a small sbrick and we can even extend it, but keeping it rather small
Some benefits:
Let me know what you think of it.
Regards,
Maurice