Updates

• 
  Paolo DGZ i have some questions about powering Sbrick From non lego batteries, if I put power From the 9v style part of the wire is possible that mistaking the polarity the sbrick will break? And there are current and voltage limitation? What are they?

  • February 2, 2015

  • 
    Jorge Pereira Plase...  morePlase see
    https://social.sbrick.com/wiki/view/pageId/9/slug/user-guide-for-sbrick
    and
    https://social.sbrick.com/forums/topic/1/social-sbrick-com-technical-questions/view/post_id/900
    
    It may break. max voltage ~11 Volt. Max current: 3A per channel, 6A whole SBrick (internal protection).  

    • February 2, 2015
    • -
    • 1 likes this
  • 
    Paolo DGZ Thank you so much! I hope SBrick team will male some battery boxes with a 3A thermal protection instead of the 750ma lego one

    • February 3, 2015
    • -
    • 1 likes this
  • 
    Jorge Pereira The SBrick has thermal protection, with the new firmware (soon to be released) it's even possible to define the threshold, I'm planning to make my stress tests again and reading the temperature to see what's happening. There are commercial LiPo batteries...  moreThe SBrick has thermal protection, with the new firmware (soon to be released) it's even possible to define the threshold, I'm planning to make my stress tests again and reading the temperature to see what's happening. There are commercial LiPo batteries with overcurrent protection, you just need to choose the right one, cut the cable and solder a LEGO PF plug instead (my stress teste were made with a plane R/C battery, just 1500 mAh capacity but 37.5A maximum current... the SBrick worked fine up to 5.8Am then internal protection cut off power to the motors).  less

    • February 3, 2015
  • 
    Paolo DGZ The problem is that my lipo are too powerful,you should try To make tests with 3S liFe, They have 9,9V current, it could be perfect

    • February 3, 2015
  • 
    Jorge Pereira Yes, 9.9 would be perfect. But there aren't much RC Shops near me, the best I got was a LiCoO2 2S (7.2V). But that doesn't affect the current measurements, just the total power/torque applied to the motors. If you don't pass the 3A, you could add some...  moreYes, 9.9 would be perfect. But there aren't much RC Shops near me, the best I got was a LiCoO2 2S (7.2V). But that doesn't affect the current measurements, just the total power/torque applied to the motors. If you don't pass the 3A, you could add some 1N5001 diodes between the LiFe and the SBrick, each diode drops 0.6~0.7 V and withstands 3A (for long periods you should use it with a heatsink).  

    • February 3, 2015
  • 
    Jorge Pereira Couldn't find a LiFe battery so took a 3S LiCoO2 11.1V/1300 mAh. Assured with voltmeter it was less than 11.8V before connecting my SBrick. Got 2.3A in one port and 7.3A total, and more it's still possible... but I don't think you want more than 70ºC...  moreCouldn't find a LiFe battery so took a 3S LiCoO2 11.1V/1300 mAh. Assured with voltmeter it was less than 11.8V before connecting my SBrick. Got 2.3A in one port and 7.3A total, and more it's still possible... but I don't think you want more than 70ºC inside your SBrick in just a few seconds
    http://youtu.be/t9cAeKqOrCv  

    • February 8, 2015